<p class="ql-block">After writing the title of this travelogue, when I put the cover image, I fell into the difficulty of choosing, because there are so many beautiful photos, and none of them can represent all of Alaska ! </p> <p class="ql-block">In my imagination, Alaska is cold and snowy, and you can go anywhere with a dog cart, and in there, you must wear the thickest down jacket and pants, and snow boots. </p><p class="ql-block">Fortunately, I did my homework in advance and didn't bring a thick down jacket.</p> Because it"s warm then. Norwegian Cruise, the ship went to Alaska in Vancouver, We will board on August 19 afternoon. <p class="ql-block">So, what do we do in the morning of the 19th? my friend Jun arranged to go to the Vancouver's famous nudist beach, Wreck Beach.</p> Do not take pictures of others↓ Only to take pictures of ourselves??↓ <p class="ql-block">We had 8 days in Cruise. </p><p class="ql-block">This image is an overview of the trip.↓</p> On August 20th, we ate, drank and had fun on board. On August 21st, we landed in Ketchikan.<br><br> <p class="ql-block">We had a watching whale tour.</p> <p class="ql-block">We walk around the Ketchkan downtown. </p> <p class="ql-block">Ketchikan is the southernmost city in Alaska, from today , we will get colder deep every day, which means that the autumn colors are getting more and more beautiful!</p> <p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block"> Ketchikan is most famous for its salmon migration.</p> This river is the Ketchikan Creek, a channel where salmon migrate and spawn. Salmon swim against the current <p class="ql-block">Took photos of the sunset in the room on the ship. </p> On August 22, landed in Juneau, the capital of Alaska.<br><br> <p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">The main purpose of Juneau is to see the Mendenhall Glacier and the salmon's dying of giving birth.</p> Arrive at the gate of Mendenhall Glacier，we shaw the salmon spawning and dying. <div><br></div> Every day the staff keeps notes. This picture shows how the salmon food comes from. <div>Mendenhall Glacier。</div><br> The glacier melts and flows into Mendenhall Lake.<div><br></div> <p class="ql-block">From ship, looked out at the beautiful harbor.</p> <p class="ql-block">On August 23rd, landed in Skagway.</p><p class="ql-block">we had the Best of Skagway & White Pass Railway Tour，It took 6 hours, bus first and then train.</p> Today's map. <p class="ql-block">The bus stopped at any good view.</p> Enjoy the silence. <p class="ql-block">Get off the bus and transfer to the sightseeing train, all the way to the top of the White Pass mountain, there is no chance to get off.</p> After getting off the train to a small village for lunch. Grilled salmon <br><div>On August 24th, landed in Hoonah</div> We enjoyed the ZIPLINE。 Here are 3 of us?? It's down the hill in 90 seconds, but it's really fun and exciting. A trail to Hoonah Downtown，beautiful。 City Hall. <p class="ql-block">On August 25th, without getting off the boat, the boat sailed to the Hubbard Glacier. </p><p class="ql-block">?to see the glacier from the ship. </p> It was foggy Online pictures↓ The scenic around the glacier is very beautiful <p class="ql-block">On August 26th, ended the cruise and arrive at Homer. And from that day, We began drive trip. </p> Today's map. <p class="ql-block"><br></p> fishing boy His brother just get a fish ,dolly <p class="ql-block">Meet swans</p> On August 27th, drove to Anchorage.<br> <p class="ql-block">In Anchorage downtown</p><p class="ql-block">Captain Cook</p> <p class="ql-block">Lake Hood, a place for seaplanes. In Alaska, 10% of people have an airplane license.</p> Before taking off on the water Flying That afternoon，hiking in Eklutna Lake park。 We saw the introduction of what fish eat in Alaska again. <p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">I felt the light autumn that day.</p> <p class="ql-block">August 28, drove to Talkeetna </p><p class="ql-block">Take a helicopter to see the Denali. </p> Talkeetna town, very small A museum. <p class="ql-block">I saw that the Climbers from all over the world who get to the top of the Denali , they will hang a small national flag in this small museum, sign their names, and there are about nearly 100 national flags.</p> <p class="ql-block">I wanted to find a China flag. I got it. The climber is Wang Shi（王石），a famouse guy in China. He is the boss of Wanke Real Estate Company. When he got to the top of the Denali ,he was 51 years old.??????</p> boarding pass The tour included glacier landing walk.,but due to weather conditions it was canceled ice cave <p class="ql-block">on the way to the hotel. </p> The hotel is a lodge near Denali National Park, which is a loft. There is a beautiful creek next to my lodge. reception desk <p class="ql-block">August 29, Denali National Park,</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">One day I was shocked by the beautiful scenery!</p> The map of Denali National Park，the red line is our drive line, and the grey is not allowed drive，we must take the bus on the grey line.是我們今天汽車要走的線路，灰色線路不允許自駕車開往，必須報公園的tour才能進入，而且每年開放的公里數(shù)也不一樣，今年公園的車最遠能到達53邁處，前兩年都還能更遠一些，今年不行，不知道什么原因。 That morning drove in the park, and took a trail. That trail along the river. <p class="ql-block">It's so beautiful ！</p><p class="ql-block">The nature colors means late autumn!</p> <p class="ql-block">Saw The Denali in the bus. </p> <div><br></div> <p class="ql-block">In the bus, I kept taking photos useing my cell phone in the aisle seat, and after the first stop, one guy gave me the window seat???? </p><p class="ql-block">Look at this beauty!</p> <p class="ql-block">There are many moose in park.</p> Another one <p class="ql-block">This is the scenery that I was shocked again after the Torres del Paine National Park and Antarctica! </p> <p class="ql-block">A female grouse</p> With a double rainbow ??we ended today's trip <p class="ql-block">We Stayed in a youth hostel at night in Fairbank, the owner is an old lady, my friends DJ and LF are living in a large open room, just like a dormitory, people who live here are cooking by themselves, there are many young people from different countries , chatting and cooking together, very interesting.</p> <p class="ql-block">Staying here is to see the aurora in the middle of the night, but we didn't see the aurora at that night. </p> <p class="ql-block">August 30th, Schedule: Dalton Highway, </p><p class="ql-block">Arctic Circle</p> <p class="ql-block">Actually, the car broke down??</p><p class="ql-block">There is no cellphone signal there. </p><p class="ql-block">There are very few cars on the road, finally came 2 cars, we stopped it, at the beginning they did not stop, drove more than 50 meters, that 2 cars turned around and came back, they were together 6 young people, did not stop at the beginning because the speed was too fast!</p><p class="ql-block"> They were very nice. </p><p class="ql-block">Luckily, the young people had a satellite phone, but the satellite phone could only send text messages, and they sent it to their friends, who called the car rental company and replied that the car rental company said they knew. And their friend also sent our location to the car rental company, and we had to wait for the car rental company to come to pick us up.</p> Took a photo together. <p class="ql-block">Wait, wait, wait, there is no news, there is no signal. </p><p class="ql-block">In the end, everyone decided to stop another car, in order to take two of us and go to a place with a cellphone signal.</p> We stoped another car. It's a police car。 <p class="ql-block">After explaining the situation to the police, the police said that he could take one person to a nearby road maintenance station for further contact. However, he can only take one person.</p> <p class="ql-block">My friend Jun went with him. </p> It was nearly 2 hours or so of waiting <p class="ql-block">At 17:06PM，The police car came back。</p><p class="ql-block">At the maintenance station, Jun called a towing company and also told the location, and they asked us to wait at the maintenance station.</p><p class="ql-block">結(jié)果不理想！手掌到了那個公路養(yǎng)護站，只有有線電話可以用，那里也沒有信號，打通了租車公司電話，租車公司說不管，原因是手掌沒有在他們公司買保險！但是承諾明天過來換一輛車。沒辦法，又給她自己的保險公司打電話，聯(lián)系非常費勁，又慢，最后聯(lián)系了一家拖車公司，對方答應(yīng)19點左右到達公路養(yǎng)護站接我們并且拖車！</p><p class="ql-block">警察非常好，把手掌送回來，又開路開著我們和破車后一起到了公路養(yǎng)護站，破車小心翼翼的開，因路程短，沒感覺有太大問題。</p><p class="ql-block">到了公路養(yǎng)護站，警察離開了，站里有一個老頭在值班，而且還快下班了。</p><p class="ql-block">沒有手機信號，沒有網(wǎng)絡(luò)，那真叫叫天天不應(yīng)，叫地地不靈啊！被動回到了沒有通訊網(wǎng)絡(luò)的時代！</p> <p class="ql-block">Before the maintenance station get off work, we used his computer with Internet access to book the hotel , otherwise we will be no place to stay at night!</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">趕緊在老頭下班前，用他有網(wǎng)的電腦把晚上返回fairbanks的酒店訂了才是最要緊的事，要不然晚上回去沒地方住了！</p><p class="ql-block">而下一站酒店還不給退錢！</p> <p class="ql-block">Wait in the station, wait, wait, wait, it's 19:30, and the trailer hasn't come yet.</p><p class="ql-block">在站里等啊，等啊，19：30了，拖車還沒來。老頭早就下班，來了新的值班人員，我和手掌又敲開值班人員的辦公室，借用電話給拖車公司打，沒人接！心里沒底。</p><p class="ql-block">值班人員說，下午就在路邊看到我們了??，知道我們車拋錨了，一不留神在當(dāng)?shù)爻闪嗣耍?lt;/p> <div>Wait until around 19:50PM, everyone made a decision together, use this broken car to drive back slowly!</div>我把養(yǎng)護站附近把那里都拍遍了。<div>等到19:50左右，大家共同做了個決定，要不然用這輛破車慢速往回開？這拖車公司也不來了吧？</div> <p class="ql-block">On the way back, after 30 minutes, and on a very muddy road, we saw the towing car on the opposite side.</p><p class="ql-block">Press the car horn and shouting, it's useless, they can't hear us. so we missed it! </p><p class="ql-block">往回開的路上，也就30分鐘左右，在一段非常泥濘的路上，非?；?，居然看到了對面來的拖車和接人的van！?。“蠢?，喊叫，都沒用，對方聽不到，就這樣華麗麗的錯過了！今天咋這么衰？好巧不巧，車又冒煙了！</p> <p class="ql-block">Stop on the side of the road and wait again!</p><p class="ql-block">We thought the towing car arrives and can't find us, they'll come back!</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">路邊停下來，等拖車到了找不到我們就會返回來！等著吧，</p><p class="ql-block">等啊等，等不到！LF就截了一輛車搭車養(yǎng)護站去找。剩余我們6個等啊等，又等了很久，拖車返回來了，沒看見LF。我們幾個跟不要命似的揮手攔車?。?！沒一會兒，LF也回來了，終于會師了！司機下車，很不高興，說到了養(yǎng)護站沒有我們，又去了我們開始拋錨的地方，還是沒有，感覺被放鴿子了！</p> <p class="ql-block">Finally the towing car came</p><p class="ql-block">開始拖車了，見到希望了</p> <div>So tired.</div>我們幾個坐上一輛非常破的van，累的東倒西歪。 <div>Arrived at the hotel in the middle of that night.</div>入住酒店時，半夜12點多了！這1天！那個不負責(zé)任的租車公司！ <p class="ql-block">On August 31st, the rental company changed car and we continued the route of yesterday's map, but it had to return to Fairbanks on the same day</p><p class="ql-block">8月31號，租車公司換車，繼續(xù)昨天的地圖線路，只是當(dāng)天必須返回Fairbanks，延續(xù)行程中的下一個酒店。</p> <p class="ql-block">The towing cost was $2,200.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">新車換回來，手掌、DJ、LF起大早換的，辛苦了！</p><p class="ql-block">發(fā)現(xiàn)，車里多一個備胎，后來才知道，去道頓公路必須2個備胎，而且別租車公司的車都不允許上那條公路，租價還高，租車公司居然沒有給我們配好備胎，這個把柄被手掌抓著，后期得以租車公司賠了我們拖車費用2200美元。</p> 今天開到這個地方，才是正式上了道頓公路。距離昨天拋錨的地方1邁?? <div>Our new car</div><div><br></div>新?lián)Q的車，底盤上是原車帶的備胎，后備箱又給配了一個備胎。 <div>The location where we were in trouble yesterday.</div>昨天被困在這里一整天都沒有想著在地圖上定個位留個紀念，還好今天想起來了，Livengood ！ <div>The name of the Dalton Highway is a highway named after James W. Dalton.</div><div>道頓公路的名字是用James W.Dalton名字命名的一條公路。</div><div>他1937年畢業(yè)于阿拉斯加大學(xué)礦業(yè)學(xué)院采礦工程專業(yè)。在阿拉斯加北部和亞北極采礦和建筑領(lǐng)域工作了六年后，于 1943 年加入美國海軍海蜂隊，尋求在北極阿拉斯加擔(dān)任巡邏預(yù)備隊的職務(wù)。1946 年，作為一名民用工程師，道頓加入了海軍的阿拉斯加石油勘探項目，并一直工作到項目完成。道頓對沒有道路的北坡、難以進入的北冰洋、該地區(qū)的資源、艱巨的挑戰(zhàn)的了解 - 這些知識在 20 世紀 60 年代幫助阿拉斯加州官員選擇了已被證明是寶貴的石油生產(chǎn)資源的州土地。</div> 道頓公路人跡罕至，景色曠視無敵，道路維護頻率估計不高，所以這條道路阿拉斯加法律不允許很多車在上面行駛，Alaska Auto Rental公司是唯一一家有可以上道頓公路的車出租，等于他們壟斷，也就可以不負責(zé)任吧。<div>但在我看來，這條公路沒什么啊，呼倫貝爾為了深度游，公路都是這樣！</div> <div>Crude oil pipelines。</div><div>阿拉斯加除了金礦，銀塊、銅礦，還以原油管道而著名，采自北冰洋的石油，經(jīng)這條管道向往輸送。下圖中有石油管道。</div><div>阿拉斯加原油管道是世界上第一條從北極地區(qū)外輸?shù)脑凸艿馈拿绹⒗辜颖逼碌钠蒸數(shù)禄魹秤蛥^(qū)起，縱貫整個阿拉斯加地區(qū)，翻過髙1463m的布魯克斯山脈，到達該區(qū)南海岸的瓦爾迪茲港。全長1277km,管徑為1220mm。管道經(jīng)過地區(qū)的最低氣溫-57，經(jīng)過700km的永凍土地帶，其中680km架空敷設(shè)，用厚lOOnim的隔熱層保溫。全線共設(shè)11個中間泵站，總裝機功率近4780000kW,設(shè)計輸油能力1億米3/年。規(guī)劃設(shè)計、施工歷時9年,耗資近80億美元，1977年7月一期工程投產(chǎn)。<br></div> <p class="ql-block">There are also gold, silver, copper, and oil in Alaska, which the United States bought from Russia for only $7.2 million in 1867.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">插一段我感興趣的歷史故事：</p><p class="ql-block">又有金礦、銀礦、銅礦，還有石油的阿拉斯加，美國是如何以700萬美元及20萬美元手續(xù)費從俄羅斯手里買走了呢？</p> <div>以下內(nèi)容是我百度來的：</div>1742年航海家維塔斯·白令隨同俄羅斯海軍在北極地區(qū)進行了一次探險，他們沿著俄羅斯西伯利亞北部海岸線一直航向到了北美洲阿拉斯加地區(qū)，并發(fā)現(xiàn)了阿拉斯加的阿留申群島、科曼多爾群島和白令島。1784年，俄羅斯人在科迪亞克島的三圣徒灣建立了他們的首個殖民地。<div>由于人煙稀少，多年來阿拉斯加沒有為俄國帶來任何貢獻，反倒增加駐軍經(jīng)費。1853年到1856年，沙俄在克里米亞戰(zhàn)爭中被英國和法國聯(lián)軍擊敗，國庫空虛；另一方面，由于英國進一步加強在北美殖民地的發(fā)展，特別是在西部的英屬哥倫比亞，令俄國擔(dān)心日后最終會戰(zhàn)敗而失去這個易攻難守的阿拉斯加。俄國希望拉攏美國以牽制日漸強大的英國的擴張。因此俄國于1859年首次向美國提議賣出阿拉斯加，以圖制衡英國。<br></div><div><br></div> 1859年俄國首次接觸美國希望出售阿拉斯加，由于美國正值發(fā)生南北戰(zhàn)爭，因此計劃告吹。后來美國北方的林肯政府勝出，沙皇亞歷山大二世指示時任首相再就阿拉斯加的買賣和美國國務(wù)卿威廉·西華德談判。談判由1867年3月初開始，并最終于1867年3月30日凌晨四時成交。圖中左二坐者為西華德，當(dāng)時許多美國人并不認同這樁買賣，揶揄阿拉斯加為“西華德家的大冰箱”。<div><br></div> 俄美雙方最終以700萬美元加20萬美元手續(xù)費成交，平均每英畝土塊僅值兩美分。而買賣的條約亦在1867年4月9日在美國參議院以37票支持，2票反對的情況下獲得通過 言歸正傳，繼續(xù)我們的旅程。 今天的行程中，道頓公路上只有到了這里才有加油的地方。 <p class="ql-block">由于把2天的行程壓縮到了一天，所以，道頓公路再美，我們也不被DJ允許停車拍景，必須全隊服從命令，一路向北，終于在下午15點多抵達北極圈！</p><p class="ql-block">繼2022年進入南極圈后，今天，我又進入了北極圈！</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">After entering the Antarctic Circle in 2022, today, I am in the Arctic Circle !</p> 進入北極圈是個象征意義，非常遺憾沒有再加1天繼續(xù)北上前往deadhorse，那樣就抵達北冰洋了。 <p class="ql-block">剛到北極圈標(biāo)志，就看見一個導(dǎo)游帶領(lǐng)他的團隊進行入圈儀式，他還帶了一塊紅毯讓儀式更莊重。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">A tour guide leading his team to the circle ceremony, he also brought a red carpet to make the ceremony more solemn.</p> 受到啟發(fā)的我們也借用他的紅毯如法炮制了一下。<div><br></div><div>It's me??</div> <p class="ql-block">沒有時間停留太久，必須盡早回返。</p><p class="ql-block">無獨有偶，今天又是人品爆棚的一天，在一天的收官之際，老天又給了一道美麗的彩虹??</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">On the way back to hotel, another rainbow。</p> <div>晚上入住切納溫泉度假村Chena Hot Springs Resort，是為了泡溫泉，但是當(dāng)晚太累，根本沒有泡溫泉的欲望。結(jié)果晚上發(fā)現(xiàn)房間里沒有洗澡水，真是服了，不泡都不行！</div> <p class="ql-block">On September 1st, the end of the trip, we walked the trail near the spa hotel, walked around the city of Fairbanks, and flew back to Minneapolis in the evening.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">9月1號，旅行結(jié)束日，溫泉酒店附近走trail，F(xiàn)airbanks城市轉(zhuǎn)轉(zhuǎn)，晚上飛回明尼艾普利斯。</p> 酒店周邊風(fēng)景宜人<div><br></div><div>Around the spa hotel.</div> 走了大概近2個小時的trail，開車前往Fairbanks Downtown。 城市不大，干凈舒服 <p class="ql-block">最后，去看了圣誕老人，據(jù)說他出生在這里。反正在北極的地方都說自己的家鄉(xiāng)是圣誕老人出生的地方，比如挪威。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">Finally, we went to see Santa Claus, who is said born here.</p> 美國人都帶小孩子來這里購買禮物。<div><br></div><div>Gift house.</div> <p class="ql-block">到此，所以旅程結(jié)束，DJ和LF去還車，返回機場后，我們席地而坐，打牌??直至登機。最后在明尼艾普利斯揮手告別，他們回弗吉尼亞和馬里蘭，我回羅杰斯特。</p> <p class="ql-block">番外：</p><p class="ql-block">回家后經(jīng)手掌的努力，跟租車公司發(fā)郵件據(jù)理力爭，租車公司將我們的拖車費用2200美元承擔(dān)了??</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">Extra:</p><p class="ql-block">After returning home, after working hard and sending an email to the car rental company, the car rental company covered the cost of our towing car 2,200 US dollars.</p>